While waiting for the new panel Click Bonds to cure, I finally got working on the right elevator tip. (I seriously screwed up the first attempt way back, and had to wait months for a replacement part.) The first photo shows the installation of the EL-30 "tip rib" inside the elevator tip. The manual calls for a piece of ST-31 channel (0.20) about 3-1/2" long. I found that a piece that long, when pushed into the tip far enough to provide clearance for the elevator flange, would either distort the tip shape or become distorted itself. A length of  3-1/4" of was better. It's important to keep the short EL-30 rib oriented squarely to the tip in all dimensions, to avoid distorting the tip, and that requires doing the position and hole layout on the fiberglass tip.

The first step was to draw a center line on the rib flanges where the holes would go. Then I laid out the three holes for each flange on the fiberglass, and drilled them. Next, the rib was put inside the fiberglass in the position shown, and maneuvered until the line drawn on the tip flange appeared in the fiberglass hole, and drilling through the metal flange, clecoing, and finishing the other holes in like fashion.

The second photo shows layout of the forward edge from the bottom side. The extra notch, just left of the top silver cleco, is necessary to allow the rotating tip to clear the roughly 1/4" of right stablizer rear spar that extends out past the elevator hinge, as shown in the third photo, below. This was also present on the left elevator tip which was completed several months ago.

Time to get serious about finishing the fiberglass windshield retainer. The first photo shows the first rough cut along the top and bottom edges with the Dremel metal cutter wheel, which goes through the fiberglass very fast. Too fast. (At this point all work on the retainer is nerve wracking -- because it would be very difficult to build another one at all, much less to fit the existing rivet hole pattern already drilled in the top of the fuselage.) All the retainer's rivet holes have been cleared out by back drilling through the filler from the backside using special plexiglass/plastic drill bits. The edge lines need to be cut and sanded down quite a bit more -- the whole thing will be narrower when done -- but the second photo shows an interim test fit back on the plane, and it's starting to look very nice indeed.

Due to a ridiculous wiring error many, many months ago, I had to take the right wing tip off again. I had planned to put off installing the AFS angle of attack (AOA) system's pressure ports until after the plane is flying, but... it was such a PITA to take the tip off (45 screws, remember) that I decided to go ahead and install the AOA pressure ports now. The rather artsy photo shows the top and bottom Delrin pressure port fittings installed. They are each attached by two stainless, countersunk, 4-40 machine screws, and the surfaces mating with the wing skin are sealed with Permatex. The top wing port's 1/8" O.D. blue polyurethane tube is attached. The green tube will go to the bottom port and of course, the tubes will be further secured so they won't flop around. The top port assembly also serves as an air/water separator, to dispel any small amounts of water that may get into the top port. Thus the top port, which is 3" further inboard than the bottom port, will have a drain out the bottom of the wing. The ports themselves are teeny holes through the wing skin made with a #60 drill bit -- so small they're hard to see, a very fine pinhole. So long as we avoid pressure washing the wing in that location, very little water will ever get in. Even so, draining the AOA water separator will be on the checklist for every preflight inspection.

Thanks to assistance from neighbor Mike, the top nose bowl stiffener is done. It was laid up with S-glass using West epoxy resin. The layup schedule started with an "L" piece on each side of the foam board mold, then two layers over the top and down, then another "L" layer on each side. The first photo shows the layup still in the frame. The second shows it removed from the frame and holding its shape quite nicely, resulting in a roughly 1" higher center line.